Succession And The Art of Quiet Luxury

The fashion in this rich-eat-rich show whispers rather than announces its presence

A new fashion idiom is all over our Instagram feeds and on the autumn/winter ‘23 runways, and it goes by the name of 'Quiet Luxury'.

Unlike 'Barbie pink' and 'Balletcore', 'Quiet Luxury' signifies more than meets the eye, acting as a reflection of our financial climate. Succession wants you to believe it’s not a show about fashion, but it still embraces the kind of fashion in which luxury whispers rather than announces its presence. Simply put, quiet luxury is new-age minimalism, with a larger focus on investment pieces and thoughtful shopping habits. Quiet luxury rejects the desire to show off.

Succession welcomes you to the world of stealth wealth, with its Maison Margiela tees and Brunello Cucinelli suits that typically cost at least five times that of anything with a visible logo. In this rich-eat-rich universe of the one percent, the characters get off on talking down to each other, and belittling their luxury buys is exactly how they remind people where they stand.

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Items in the Roy realm of fashion are still extremely expensive, but only recognizable to certain people in certain circles that emit an aura of wealth by looking anonymously chic.

The fashion in Succession has been described by The New Yorker as “expensive but inconspicuous.” Often sporting neutral, subdued tones that are logo-less, the Roy family intentionally exudes extreme wealth and power. To this fictional family, wealth is not about what you have, but about what you don’t.

It’s very much the whole, ‘Oh, Mark Zuckerberg only wears the same shirt and pants', but if you checked the price on some of those shirts, you would not be able to afford it.

Characters who don a more flashy wardrobe — like Tom Wambsgans, husband to Shiv Roy — are ridiculed for being nouveau riche. Though Roy family members have their own personal style — take Shiv’s transformation from a traditionally feminine look to Ivanka Trump-esque business wardrobe — they choose not to opt for self-expression through fashion. Shiv Roy became much more put together once she traded politics for corporate family rivalries.

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In Season 3, Episode 9 of Succession, Kendall is clad in a brown suit, unlike the brighter patterns and florals that the others wear while in Italy. By the end of the season, he’s back in knits and in the cold embrace of his father, who is yet again cleaning up his mess. Kendall uses his clothing as a tool of rebellion, often as a means to find identity and distinguish himself from Logan. From vintage baseball jerseys to chains and Gucci bomber jackets, Kendall's style adapts according to the status of his relationship with Logan.

The characters often pick pieces from Club Monaco, Tom Ford, Max Mara, Maison Margiela, Brunello Cucinelli, Cartier, Ted Baker, Hobbs and more.

Succession costume designer Michelle Matland explained to 'The Ringer' that the Roy family’s understated fashion is intentional and symbolic.

“They don’t need to have the bling to them, because anyone who would know would recognize them immediately,” she said. “They are the anti-Kardashians.”

Here are some of the best looks from the show so far.

Shiv Roy's Ted Baker Serendipity Printed Bodycon Dress in Season 3, Episode 9.